Natural ingredients at risk under current EU cosmetics legislation plans, NATRUE warns

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Proposed modifications and alignment plans for EU legislation on cosmetics could lead to “automatic unjustified removal” of natural cosmetics ingredients from the market, International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE) has warned. 

NATRUE has joined a broad coalition of industry associations calling on EU policymakers to adopt a “smart simplification” to streamline and modernise the Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation and the Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR).

The joint statement – signed by representatives across the cosmetics, fragrance and essential oils value chains – highlights a shared commitment to consumer safety, grounded in scientific rigour, continuous innovation and

operational excellence. It also stresses the need to remove unnecessary burdens, strengthen legal clarity, and ensure that regulatory decisions reflect real-world use.

“Safety and science must remain the backbone of EU Cosmetics Regulation,” said Dr Mark Smith, director general of NATRUE. “But to be effective, addressing current challenges is essential. The natural cosmetics sector is largely made up of SMEs. To foster bioeconomic innovation and support competitiveness, NATRUE echoes the call for proportionate, workable solutions towards smarter regulation protecting both people and progress.”

A key concern is that current CLP-CPR alignment can result in automatic bans of cosmetic ingredients based solely on hazard classification – without assessing actual risk under intended use. For natural cosmetics, this could lead to the unjustified removal of safe ingredients from the market, including those with long-standing use or even approval in food. Such unintended consequences would affect consumer choice, product availability, innovation and manufacturing across Europe.

To address this, the signatories are proposing “practical, science-based solutions”, including:

– A revised Article 15.2 of the CPR enabling risk-based exemptions, guided by SCCS evaluations and real-use scenarios.

  • Realistic reformulation timelines and transitional periods for compliance.

Recognition and protection of natural ingredients and essential oils, valued by consumers and integral to Europe’s heritage and bioeconomy.

NATRUE says this balanced and evidence-based approach is essential to support the responsible use of natural complex substances and sustainable innovation.

It adds that the “cosmetics and fragrance community – from farmers and raw material producers to SMEs and global brands – stands united in calling for an omnibus that preserves the EU’s leadership in safety, sustainability and innovation without compromising on consumer protection, regulatory effectiveness or competitiveness”.

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